A roof rack is for tents and recovery boards. The hood is for charging.
If you run a 4Runner, the right hood solar panel is a cut-to-hood ETFE sheet, not a 100W suitcase on the tailgate and not a rigid panel stealing your RTT real estate. This guide maps every live 4xSolar 4Runner SKU by generation and scoop, then gives you the wire-and-fuse matrix to commission it.
Not sure which hood you have? Run the hood solar audit.
Pick this SKU
Look at the hood. Then look at the year. Then buy one kit.
| Year / gen | Hood | Buy this | Panel SKU | Panel | Full kit |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2003–2024 (4th + 5th) | No scoop | Default. Highest watts on a flat hood. | LS-100FX2-4R | $339 | $474 full kit |
| 2003–2024 (4th + 5th) | Factory scoop, budget | Three-piece 28W+24W+28W around the scoop. | LS-80FX2-4R | $329 | $469 full kit |
| 2003–2024 (4th + 5th) | Factory scoop, fridge | Same three-piece plus a 30W add-on (80+30). | LS-80FX2-4R+30FX2-TC | $439 | $599 full kit |
| 2025–present (6th) | No scoop | 6th-gen hood cut. | LS-110FX2-J | $339 | $474 full kit |
| 2025–present (6th) | Factory scoop | Keep-alive only. Not a fridge panel. | LS-35FX2-4R | $219 | $354 full kit |
Still running a 3rd gen (1995–2002)? 85W no-scoop or 50W scoop. 2nd gen (1989–1995): 45W or 75W.
Verdict, 5th gen: flat hood = 100W full kit. Scoop + fridge = 110W scoop full kit. Do not put a single-piece 100W over a scoop.
Verdict, 6th gen: no-scoop = 110W 6th-gen cut. Scoop = 35W is a battery tender, not a fridge panel. That is the honest gap.
Overview — three pillars
The Inputs
A hood panel is always in the sun when the truck is. No unfolding. No stealing the rack. The Lensun 100W 4th/5th-gen sheet is rated 100W peak, 21V Vmp, 4.76A Imp, 24.78V Voc, 5.23A Isc, 23.5% cell efficiency, about 5.5 lb, IP68 junction box with 5 ft leads. The 80W scoop kit is 18V / 4.44A. The 110W scoop kit is 18V / 6.11A.
Real output on a hot Arizona hood is lower than the sticker. Plan on 50–70W peak on the 100W sheet. That is still enough to hold a starter battery and cover a modest 12V fridge in sun.
The Bank
- Starter only: dash cam, weekend camping. The 10A MPPT in the full kit is the right controller.
- House / aux battery: isolator or DC-DC, then the hood panel on the house bank. Do not feed lithium with a PWM suitcase controller.
- Power station: Anderson or XT60 into the station solar input. 100W Voc is 24.78V — stay under the station limit.
The Loads
| Load | What the 100W hood actually does |
|---|---|
| Starter battery + dash cam | Holds state of charge. This is the default win. |
| 12V fridge (40–55 qt) in sun | Daytime runtime. Not a 48-hour no-sun guarantee. |
| Starlink Mini + phones | Easy, unless the fridge is also pulling hard in 100F. |
| 6th-gen 35W scoop | Phone + battery tender. Not a fridge. |
Fridge + Starlink + lights overnight needs a house battery. Run the mobile power audit. The hood panel is the input, not the whole architecture.
Blueprint — three layers
1. Charging
- Confirm generation and scoop. 5th gen is 2010–2024. 4th gen shares this hood cut (2003–2009). 6th gen is 2025-present and uses a different SKU.
- Order the full kit unless you already own a 10A MPPT and a matching vinyl.
- Wash, clay, and IPA the hood.
- Wet-apply the vinyl. Wait 48 hours dry cure before the panel goes down.
- Flatten the rolled panel. 3M tape around the perimeter, then field strips. Hinge-tape the top edge, peel, drop, squeegee. Weight it 24 hours. Optional silicone on the leading edge in monsoon country.
2. Storage, safety, grounding
Route the 5 ft leads along the factory harness at the cowl / firewall. Do not pinch them in the hood hinge. Controller lives in the engine bay or just inside the cabin. Battery-side fuse goes within 7 inches of the positive post.
Chassis-ground the controller negative only on a flooded/AGM starter battery if the instructions call for it. Lithium house negatives stay on the battery post.
3. Distribution
Hood panel is the input. The 10A MPPT is the gate. The battery is the bank. Fridge loads come off a fused block, not off the MPPT load terminals. If you add dual battery later, move the MPPT onto the house bank.
Wire and fuse matrix

100W 5th-gen numbers shown. 110W scoop uses the same 10 AWG and a 15A fuse; Imp is 6.11A, still inside 15A.
| From | To | AWG | Fuse | Tech notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hood panel + | MPPT PV+ | 10 AWG | None on a factory 5 ft run | If you extend past ~10 ft, add a 10A inline on PV+. |
| Hood panel − | MPPT PV− | 10 AWG | — | Keep +/− the same length. |
| MPPT BATT+ | 15A ANL / MIDI fuse | 10 AWG | 15A | Fuse within 7 in of battery positive. 100W charge current is ~8A at 12.8V. |
| Fuse | Battery + | 10 AWG | — | Starter or house, not both. |
| MPPT BATT− | Battery − | 10 AWG | — | Lithium: land on the battery post, not a body bolt. |
| Battery − | Chassis ground | 10 AWG | — | Starter-battery builds only. Skip on an isolated lithium house bank. |
Why 10 AWG on a 5A panel: voltage drop on a hot engine-bay run, and one gauge for the whole job.
Traps and testing
Three DIY mistakes
- Wrong hood. A 100W single-piece on a scooped 5th gen will bridge the scoop. A 5th-gen panel on a 2025 6th-gen hood is the wrong cut. Year first, scoop second.
- Skip the vinyl and the 48-hour wait. That is how you get edge lift, then water, then a dead corner after one monsoon.
- PWM suitcase controller, no fuse, chassis-grounded lithium. The 10A MPPT and the 15A fuse exist for a reason.
Five-point multimeter commission
Do this in sun, hood up, after the 24-hour bond.
- PV open-circuit, disconnected: close to 24.8V on the 100W sheet.
- PV under load: Vmp near 21V on the 100W sheet.
- Charge current on BATT+: several amps in good sun. A 100W panel is a 4.76A Imp device.
- Battery voltage rising after 15 minutes in sun with loads off.
- Drop check panel vs MPPT PV terminals. More than ~3% drop is a bad crimp or too-thin extension.
If any of those five fail, stop. Send the readings through the hood solar audit.
Hood vs the generic setups
Most 4Runner writeups still feature a rigid on the rack, a 50W suitcase into a CTEK, or a Goal Zero / Jackery box you drag out at camp.
| Setup | Always-on | Keeps the RTT rack | Vehicle-cut | Good at |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4xSolar hood panel | Yes | Yes | Yes | Starter hold + daytime fridge. Zero deploy. |
| Rigid on the rack | Yes | No | No | Watts, if you do not need that rack slot. |
| 50W suitcase + CTEK | No | Yes | No | Occasional camp. You have to set it up. |
| Power station + folding panel | No | Yes | No | Quiet camp kitchen. Not a battery tender on the trail. |
The hood panel is not "better watts." It is better architecture for a 4Runner that already has a roof full of tent. A 5.5 lb hood sheet is not heavy and bulky.
What to order
Every 4Runner hood SKU has four variants: panel only, panel + vinyl, panel + 10A MPPT, and the full kit. Order the full kit unless you already own the other two pieces.
Shop the matching hood
- 5th gen, no scoop: LS-100FX2-4R full kit
- 5th gen, scoop: 80W or 110W
- 6th gen: 110W no-scoop or 35W scoop
- Not sure: Hood solar audit
- Fridge + Starlink + house battery: Mobile power audit
- All 4Runner panels: toyota + 4runner filter
Capable. Equipped. Ready.